Winterizing Your Watercraft

Mark Leonard

 

Material List:

Common steps:

  1. Haul out of water and secure on trailer, ensuring proper hull support.
  2. Scrub all exterior surfaces with soap and hull cleaner to remove grime and scum. This is most easily done right after the haul out before slime on underwater portion drys out.
  3. Wax sides and bottom with marine grade wax to seal fiberglass pores to prevent chalking of gelcoat.
  4. Remove valuables, clothing, and bedding from cabin. Shut down refrigerator and appliances. Open interior compartments to allow air flow and drying. Leave refrigerator open.
  5. Drain fresh water (drinking water) system and storage tanks. Add R.V. antifreeze and pump through system if necessary. Pump head tank and fill with R.V. antifreeze, usually 1-2 gallons is sufficient.
  6. Attach flush muff or similar device to engine raw water pick up. Start engine and idle to warm up. Shut down and drain engine oil and change filter. Lubricate engine/outdrive per recommendations. Restart engine with outside water source attached and check for oil leaks. Remove flame arrester and spray fogging oil into carb air inlet until engine idles rough. Shut down engine. DO NOT restart engine after fogging procedure. Clean arrester and reinstall.
  7. Drain engine cooling system. Refer to owners manual for location and number of drains. Make sure ALL water is out and reinstall drain plugs.
  8. If engine is a closed fresh water system, test coolant freeze point, or drain and refill fresh water system per owners/shop manual. 60/40 mix is recommended in most fresh water systems. This should protect against freezing to -40 degrees F. or better.
  9. Wipe down engine's metal surfaces. I use WD40 or similar on a shop towel. Don't over do it! Ensure bilge is clean and dry. Flush with liquid soap (Dawn) and warm water to remove oily residues if necessary.
  10. Remove batteries and clean, top off with distilled water, fully charge them and place in a cool area for storage. Batteries should be charged once every 60 days when not in use. If a shore power unit/charger is on board, shut down main switches, but leave batteries connected to charger if power is available. Check water level every 60 days.
  11. Drain lower unit gear case. Lube and check for signs of excess water in the gear case. If present, lower unit may require additional work. If it is O.K., simply refill to proper level and install plugs. Wipe down drive unit with WD40 and shop towel.
  12. Check all remaining fluid levels and adjust as required. Inspect hoses and belts and replace as required. Shut off fuel flow from tank and top off fuel tank to displace air. Add stabilizer if needed.
  13. Move boat to storage area. If inside, loosely cover with tarp to keep dust off. Use of DeCon or mouse proofing is recommended. If outside, place in an area where snowfall is lighter. I recommend a sturdy frame work be constructed and cover with a weather resistant tarp. Make sure boat is covered from blowing snow. In either case, ensure hull drain plug is out and bow is higher than stern so no water will be left in the hull or bilges.
  14. Wait 6 months and pray for an early summer!

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